Cantina del Pino "Ovello" Barbaresco DOCG, 2018

Okay, so...this is THE wine. Even if you don't bother to listen to the "I'll drink to that" podcast with Renato about how the definitive history of Barbaresco and why we even know what it is, globally, let alone seek it out and fervently drink it any chance we can...even if you don't know that the Vacca family were not only the founders of the Produttori del Barbaresco but that their site and holdings in Ovello, specifically, earned them the clout and skill and control to lead their neighbor farmers on an international stage...it was THIS farm that did that. We are grateful. And, more importantly, the wine is simply SPECTACULAR. Buy extra and lay some down. You'll think I'm pretty good at this if you do...and really, it's not me at all, but moreover my mentor Jim and some of the most special winemaking in the world on an ancient farm that makes this one of the best wines to collect and (when you feel like you just need or WANT to) DRINK as often as you can.

From June 2022 Reviews in the Wine Advocate by Monica Larner
“Cantina del Pino's Renato Vacca died too young in 2020. It is especially poignant to taste these wines, one of his last vintages, and I cannot help but remark on the evident passion that comes through so clearly in these bottles. In fact, Cantina del Pino interprets the 2018 vintage with almost magical effortlessness.”

“Showing subtle and sweet fruit, the 2018 Barbaresco Ovello is all about softness and silkiness. Starting off shy, the wine grows in intensity with time in the glass. It shows good structure and stays gripped to the palate thanks to the well-integrated tannins. There is pretty mineral definition as well, but ultimately the wine is fleshed out by the softness and its accessible fruit.”

94 ML WA June ‘22

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The Vacca family is steeped in the history of Barbaresco. The late Renato and his father Adriano decided to leave the Produttori del Barbaresco nearly three decades ago, an organization that Adriano co-founded in 1958 with his brother Celestino.  I imagine at the time it was a difficult decision, as the family was instrumental in the creation of the Produttori, just as they were instrumental in the very creation of the appellation now world famous as Barbaresco. The very first bottling named Barbaresco came from their vineyard “Ovello”. But it was a wise move as we can now see, in that they have created one of the greatest estates in the zone and all of Piemonte for that matter. Indeed, one that has quickly reached levels of critical acclaim that one would expect that could only be achieved over generations. But then again, they have been doing it that long, just under different names. 

And now there is a new chapter with Renato’s wife Franca taking over the reins. My first taste of the first wine that she made all on her own, the 2020 Langhe Nebbiolo blew my mind (now available on our shelves in West Hartford and Morris.

All Barbareschi from CDP undergo extended submerged cap fermentation with indigenous yeast. Post fermentation macerations that keep the wine and skins together for at least 30 days and then they are  moved to large (25-30 HL) Bottle for two years plus in the case of the Classico bottling and longer (30 months) for crus.

After 6-12 months in bottle the wines are released.

Some recent Vinous quotes from years past:

“Readers who haven’t discovered Cantina del Pino yet owe it to themselves to do so. Proprietor Renato Vacca is making some of the most compelling wines in Piedmont today.”

“This range from Cantina del Pino and proprietor Renato Vacca is one of the most impressive I tasted this year. Every wine from this small cellar in the center of Barbaresco is fabulous. I can’t say enough good things about Cantina del Pino. I never turn down a chance to drink these wines, as they are exceptional.”

“My visit with proprietor Renato Vacca was illuminating, as we toured several vineyards during the 2009 harvest and tasted through a number of wines. This year, Vacca has a new Barbaresco from the Albesani vineyard – and it is a knockout. Despite all of his recent success Vacca remains humble and down to earth, qualities that should serve him very well for the future. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these wines, the Barbarescos in particular.”