DeMorgenzon DMZ Syrah Stellenbosch, 2017

Perched on the highest slopes of the Stellenboschkloof is the magnificent DeMorgenzon estate, established in 2003 by Wendy and Hylton Appelbaum – members of South Africa’s first family of philanthropy via the Donald Gordon foundation. The farm was named DeMorgenzon (“the morning sun”) because it is the first part of the Stellenboschkloof to see the rising sun.

The estate was originally a part of Uiterwyk (“Outer Ward”), one of South Africa’s oldest wine farms, founded in 1682. The jewel property occupies a unique position on south-facing slopes in the Stellenbosch Hills, commanding panoramic views of both Table Bay (the Atlantic Ocean) and False Bay (the Indian Ocean), converging at Cape Point. The farm’s slopes rise from 655–1,312 feet above sea level and enjoy coastal mists and cool breezes which roll in from the two mighty oceans. The soils are predominantly granite-based Oakleaf and Tukulu.

After purchasing the DeMorgenzon property, the Appelbaums conducted detailed analyses of the land. They ripped out over 120 acres of vines – leaving only some old Chenin Blanc bush vines – and embarked upon a major replanting program, carefully matching varietals and clones to soils and slopes. Embracing the philosophy that a biodiverse and ecologically sensitive environment produces infinitely better grapes, the Appelbaums have established DeMorgenzon as a 225 acre garden interspersed with 136 acres of carefully tended vineyards, where abundant wildflowers flourish between the vines.

DeMorgenzon farms sustainably, with careful consideration of environmental impact in all viticultural and vinicultural decisions. The farm is a member of the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative, a ground-breaking partnership between the South African wine industry and the conservation sector that aims to preserve the biodiversity of the Cape Floral Kingdom. Approximately 10% of the estate has been set aside for restoration to native South African flora.

DeMorgenzon has gained acclaim for their flagship old vines Chenin Blanc. The winery also produces a value range, called DMZ, where the overarching objective is to overdeliver on quality for price. Some of the fruit for the DMZ label is estate grown, while some is sourced from carefully selected sites. Winemaker Carl van de Merwe joined DeMorgenzon in 2010 after eight years at renowned estate Quoin Rock.

Hylton Appelbaum, a classical music expert, is a firm believer in the positive effects of melodic sound energy on plant growth. Baroque music is played in the DeMorgenzon vineyards and cellars 24 hours a day through strategically placed speakers. The harmony and mathematical rhythm unique to this music translates into wines of exquisite balance, elegance and complexity, a winning combination of rich New World fruit and classic Old World structure.

Deep, purple core. Rich, berry fruit nose with lots of ripe, red plum and whiffs of white pepper. Some floral notes in the background, including violets, lavender and spring blossoms. Full in the mouth with tremendous youthful vigour. Layers of berry fruit with developing spices of pepper, cinnamon, clove and vanilla. Gentle oak integration shows and supports the elegance and roundness at this early age.

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