Domaine Boyer-Martenot Bourgogne Aligoté, 2017

Vincent Boyer is an anomaly -- a hard-working, hands-in-the-soil grower focused on quality in an appellation where other growers have grown lazy, recruiting enologists and coasting on Meursault’s reputation. Domaine Boyer-Martenot is an estate where the wine in the bottle lives up to its noble appellation.

Meursault’s classic perfume is nutty, with accents of honey, lemon, wild fern and linden blossom. At their best, the wines are rich and full-bodied, with a tangy, flinty note in each sip.

Boyer vinifies grapes from his Meursault “village” vineyards separately, a practice his less-attentive neighbors save only for the grapes of their most famous vineyards. This practice, and his gentle winemaking touch, have allowed Boyer bring to light the character of these plots, such that today, Boyer devotees know the signature aromas and flavors of these vineyards as well as they know Meursault’s premier and grand crus.