Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2017

The first half of a tasting at Rollin always culminates with this, one of the keystone white Burgundies of the Rosenthal portfolio. We have collectively experienced dozens of older bottles through the years, whether in the family cellar or over dinner with Neal (whose immense collection of older Rollin Corton-Charlemagne speaks to its quality), and it is a wine that never fails to dazzle. The Rollins own two parcels on this great hill—one on the Pernand side, and one on the Aloxe side, totaling only about a half-hectare—and the wine has always been a blend of the two. It spends a full two winters in the cellar as per tradition, and it wears its 50% new oak effortlessly.