Domaine Tatsis Goumenissa, 2009

A blend of two local grapes, Xinomavro and Negoska, Goumenissa is powerful and intense, and this 2009 vintage — just released — is hands down one of the best, most exciting, red wines we’ve tasted in some time. Xinomavro brings structure and acid, while Negoska softens with fruit, body and a plush texture; this alchemy is kind of like what Cabernet Franc and Merlot can do on Bordeaux’s right bank.  

Flavors of ripe red and black cherry mingle with spice and a hint of the aromatics that make wine lovers gaga for Burgundy and Piedmont. Tannins are evident but relaxed, and as the wine opens up in your glass it reveals flavors and aromas of thyme, cedar, leather and tobacco atop bass notes of cherry and plum, maybe a splash of perky pomegranate.