Eggplant: Three Wines + Three Ways
You should know this essential part first: in drafting this short piece, I’ve settled on the wines *first* in my structured ‘content chart’ above. Why does this matter? Because as a foundation, it is imperative that we come to believe in our ability to prepare delicious food and know that it is likely most intuitive to do so after we’ve chosen what is going in the glass and before we settle on what is going on the plate. First up: Massaya 'Le Colombier' Beqaa Valley, 2020
Eggplant…what to do? To capitalize on the unique highlights of this wine, I want roasted and toasted flavors…an imbued nearly-Mayard Reaction flavor (what we think of caramelization, in shorthand).
I want to pick up on the sun-kissed grapes harvested in the heat of the Lebanese sun and balance the acidity that this fresh and lively house favorite perennially features. And, perhaps something smokey…and then a balance with that lemony deliciousness we find in Mediterranean dishes…
Preheat the oven to 350. Place the whole eggplant (as is!) on a small cookie sheet and roast for the better part of 45 minutes. Turn halfway through (gently so as to NOT pierce the ever-tenderizing skin containing the precious slow-cooking flesh.
After the eggplant is generally softened, carefully slice the longway in half and split open. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Place close to a high heat broiler in the oven and broil until the top is toasted and beginning to golden, about 10 minutes.
Allow to cool enough to hold. Scoop out the flesh completely into a bowl. Add three tablespoons of tahini, the juice of two lemons, salt and pepper to taste and a very light sprinkle of smoked paprika.
Mix/whip by hand with a standard fork until you’ve reached a consistent creamy dip-like texture.
This is now READY to be spread on grilled toast with fresh chopped mint and sliced roasted sweet red pepper. A drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle of feta?! Goodness, this and a salad and dinner is served.
Be sure to put a light chill on this wine, too!
Newfound Wines 'Gravels' Red Blend California, 2020
I want to pick up on the playful and ripe Grenache in this ultra classic California Table Wine. Pardon how East Coast this is going to sound, but I want a lightly fried slice of eggplant wrapped in iceberg lettuce, smear of ripe avocado, fresh sprouts, a decent spread of quick Dijonnaise, and sliced red onion quick pickled in red wine vinegar.
AT Roca Rosat Reserva Brut Nature Classic Pendès, 2021
I want something that will have this acid and fruit at tension with the food. Something richly flavored but not heavy.
Salt. Brine. Acid. … A cheat code: take a classic dish and pivot just one ingredient. Here, I use grilled/broiled/cast iron eggplant as a base for pan con tomate in lieu of the ‘pan’ (bread!). All you do is: once your eggplant is firm and cooked and lovely, you lightly spread high quality canned tomato (whole peeled) on to the eggplant like a spread, next, a light grating of fresh garlic, flake salt, black pepper, tinned white anchovies, and a healthy drizzle of olive oil. 100%!
Red Red RoséSparkling
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$30.00
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$22.00
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$26.00
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