Roast a Chicken. Explore Spice.

JZS

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What to eat? What to drink? What’s it like outside? What’s the forecast tonight? What’s my mood? Our ever-changing seasons in New England and seasons around the globe have us asking in our respective local markets, ultimately, what’s for dinner?! I seek comfort and comfort food…deep flavors and aromas that fill up the whole house. I do not, however, ordinarily have time for a proper braise or other lovely lock-myself-away-from-the-busy-world favorites. Roasting a chicken is my best bet whether for a dinner party or a Tuesday evening. My friends in France agree and so does their wine.

My favorite fall red, and something that Allie and I diligently “stock” at our house this time of year is Beaujolais. Beaujolais, like countless wines from Continental Europe is named after its origin, in this case the region of Beaujolais in Southern Burgundy. By law the wine is 100% Gamay (one of the naturally lighter bodied grapes in the Noble Grape spectrum). This typically juicy red varietal can certainly reflect a vast range of house styles and winemaking traditions, but, nearly across the board, aromas and flavors will reveal bright red fruits, fresh herbs, raspberry seed, red currant, cranberry, and pomegranate. I particularly like to get in front of that dinner hour temperature transition when the warm late afternoon sun gives way to a crisp night: I’ll begin the chicken dinner with my Beaujolais lightly chilled and let it come up to room temp sitting casually on the table (that is, if we don’t finish the bottle immediately!).

When shopping for Beaujolais, remember that like many things, there are a few rules that can help you navigate style and quality and price:

I often will turn the bottle over, first, to take a closer and important look at the back label. Beaujolais, particularly good ones, are the pride of an importer. Someone traveled over to France and tasted lots of bottles before settling in and concluding that the one in your hand in your favorite local shop on a given night was, indeed, the bottle he/she/they wanted to import to America. Favorite importers include: France + Western, Grand Cru Selections, Louis/Dressner, Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Skurnik Wines, and similarly situated boutique outfits.

Next, I want a producer that a staff member is excited about. I like stories and stories support my understanding of quality and, ultimately, enhance my enjoyment. Recently, the topic came up three times in one day over two different tasting appointments that the importer was excited about the young winemaker’s careful work and organic farming. Ask after what specifically is going on at the farm where the wine is grown and made. No discussion of the farm? Don’t buy the wine!

Lastly, I’ll list a few Beaujolais that I’ve loved recently. Please note that some of them will carry, only, the name of the specific village within the Beaujolais region so don’t get confused! (For reference, those region names, from North to South are: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly.)

o Smith-Chapel ‘Lantignie’ Beaujolais Villages, 2021

o Domaine du Pere Jean Cote de Brouilly, 2020

o Julien Duport "Lieu dit Brouilly" Côte de Brouilly, 2020

o Clusel-Roch "Traboules" Coteaux du Lyonnais, 2020 (not technically Beaujolais but 100% Gamay and 100% delicious)

a roasted chicken.

the basis of all things good and all good things: a roast chicken. enjoy the uniquely delicious flavors herein and then, use this easy and proven roasting method with your own dynamite traditions…

NOTE: This chicken is best marinated at least 12, or up to 24 hours in advance of cooking

MARINATE:

Finely CHOP two preserved lemons (peel only; discard the super-salty flesh)

COMBINE softened butter, chopped preserved lemon, salt, and pepper. SET aside.

REMOVE backbone from chicken by cutting along either edge of spine with kitchen shears.

DISCARD backbone (or save for soup!) and FLIP chicken over so breast is facing up.

APPLY firm pressure across breastbone to flatten chicken (it’ll *snap*).

RUB fingers carefully between skin and breast meat, separating them to create a pocket for marinade. Separate skin from meat all the way down breast and thigh to drumstick.

DIVIDE butter-lemon mixture into thirds. Use 2/3 beneath the skin of the chicken, pressing and smoothing lemon mixture to ensure it reaches all parts of the meat, including the drumstick. Spread remaining 1/3 of the lemon mixture to coat the outside skin of the chicken.

SPRINKLE the chicken liberally with salt and pepper.

PLACE chicken breast side up, uncovered, in fridge for at least 12, or up to 24 hours.

COOK:

REMOVE chicken from fridge. Temper for two hours. PREHEAT the oven to 500°.

PLACE a cast iron pan on stovetop over medium heat.

ADD duck fat when pan begins to smoke and SWIRL to coat the bottom of the pan. ADD the potatoes and TOSS to coat in the hot fat.

SEASON the potatoes with Ras El Hanout (a spice blend you can find in the market) and TOSS to coat.

REMOVE the pan from the heat when spices “bloom,” filling the kitchen with scent.

ARRANGE the tempered, marinated chicken over the top of the potatoes, laying it flat.

PLACE the pan with chicken and potatoes into 500° oven.

COOK for 10 minutes per pound, beginning to check for doneness in the breast 10 minutes before total estimated cook time. (For a 4lb roaster, anticipate 40 minutes of cook time, check at 30 minutes; if chicken begins to brown too quickly, loosely cover with foil.)

REMOVE pan from oven when thermometer reads 154° at breast.

REMOVE chicken immediately to rest on cutting board, uncovered.

TOSS potatoes in accumulated juices and return to oven while chicken rests 15 minutes.

CARVE the chicken, taking care to preserve the skin and RETURN pieces to hot pan over the potatoes.

SERVE with simple mixed greens salad.

GROCERY LIST

☐ 4 lb roaster, preferably kosher (they taste really good!)

☐ 4 tbl salted butter softened

☐ 1 lb baby potatoes

☐ KOSHER Salt

☐ FRESH CRACKED BLACK Pepper

☐ GREENS “and such” for a simple salad