El Morocco Lamb Kabobs

JZS

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Flavor Memories are the strongest memories. Indeed, all senses run high: the sight of hard work in the kitchen, the sound of the clattering of pots and pans and laughter of guests at the table, the smell of the meal to come, and the taste – above all the taste.

I grew up in the back of my grandmother’s restaurant. Well, to clarify, I grew up in the back of a Lebanese restaurant that my Jewish (non-Lebanese) grandmother ran for 38 years. The El Morocco. You may have heard of it; it was an icon. Truly special and crazy busy for many many years. My memories of the sights of a the kitchen as large as my entire house, the sounds of cooks laughing and gossiping, singing and yelling as they worked, the smells of pots simmering and ovens baking, and the tastes stolen snacks enjoyed as I hid in secret nooks and crannies of the restaurant.

By the time my wife, Allie, and I married, “The El,” as we called it, had long closed its doors and my grandmother had long passed away. But, those Flavor Memories persisted. When I began working late, and often stressful, nights in the industry, Allie taught herself to make the food that graced my dinner table as a child. Indeed, my wife recreated the very same soulful flavors that nourished my grandmother so many years ago when she closed up at The El for the night and arrived home as we all slept. This food, these Flavor Memories, now nourished me, late at night so many years later.

I invite you to share a taste of this. Prepare a favorite recipe here that we have culled from the food traditions of Lebanon and Morocco, Israel, and Egypt. I hope that you feel the love of our family and cherish some of our persistent Flavor Memories.

Wise Old Dog Kabobs

In Morocco they are Kefta, in Lebanon they are Kafta. No matter what you call them, we love this “mash up” of different cultures’ approach to seasoned ground meat kabobs. The recipe is as changeable as it is quick and easy. Feel free to substitute spices and meats and try new combinations.

Ingredients (serves 4)

Kabobs

1 lb ground lamb or beef or a mixture of the two

3 large cloves of garlic, minced

1 shallot, minced

1 lemon, zested and squeezed with the juice reserved for yogurt sauce

2 tbl fresh parsley, chopped

1 1/2 tsp cumin

1 tsp paprika (hot smoked or traditional sweet, your preference)

1 tsp dried oregano

1 tsp dried mint

1/4 tsp cayenne (or to taste)

1 tsp salt

Freshly ground pepper to taste

Yogurt Sauce

1 cup sour cream or greek yogurt

2 tbl mayonnaise (we recommend Sir Kensington’s brand)

1 tbl lemon juice from zested lemon above

1 tsp white sugar

Salt and pepper to taste

Optional Hot Sauce

2 tbl prepared harissa (We recommend Entube brand)

2 tbl cayenne pepper sauce (like Tobasco)

For Assembly

Wooden skewers

Naan or pita

Shredded iceberg lettuce

Chopped tomato

Shaved red onion

- PLACE meat in large mixing bowl and add minced garlic and shallots, the lemon zest, parsley, and all dried spices.

- Use hands to COMBINE but do not overwork. The mixture can be covered and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.

- When ready to cook, SOAK wooden skewers in water. While soaking prepare the yogurt sauce and optional hot sauce.

- WHISK the yogurt sauce ingredients together until smooth.

- SPOON sauce into a sandwich bag to create a makeshift pastry bag for drizzling.

- For the hot sauce, MIX the harissa and pepper sauce until smooth.

- While the kabob meat is still cold, use hands to FORM the meat around the bamboo skewers, spreading the meat equally around the center of the stick to ensure even cook time. Repeat to prepare 6 skewers.

- HEAT the broiler and lightly DRIZZLE a baking sheet with oil, rolling the prepared skewers in oil to prevent sticking and promote browning.

- PLACE pan under the broiler and allow meat to begin to cook.

- TURN skewers regularly to promote even browning. Use a meat thermometer to confirm the meat is fully cooked, about 10 minutes.

- When kabobs are finished, PLACE pita or naan in bottom of still-warm oven for just a few seconds to heat.

- SERVE each pita or naan with one kabob (SLIDE it from its stick to serve!).

- SNIP the corner of the sandwich bag containing the yogurt sauce and drizzle over the kabob.

- TOP with lettuce, tomato, onion, and hot sauce as desired.

- FEAST! Create Flavor Memories. And, don’t forget a bottle of wine to accompany your feast.

...But how to choose the right bottle?

For lamb I rarely look much further than a favorite juicy Syrah. Well-priced approachable Syrah can be challenging to find.

We’ve got you covered. I recommend:

Jean-Francois Jacouton 'Cuvee A Deux Pas' Syrah Ardeche, 2021