From the Press: The Esmonin family’s connection to the domaine’s vines is much older than their ownership of those vines. Sylvie’s grandfather worked for the Comte de Moucheron who had the monopoly of Gevrey’s famous Clos Saint Jacques vineyard. In the 1950s when the Comte decided to sell up in Gevrey, Sylvie’s grandfather bought both a portion of the Clos Saint Jacques and the house and buildings that adjoined it – you could say the Clos is their garden. The domaine’s address is an old Gevrey joke – ‘New Road’ – hmm, perhaps in the twelfth century; this is the oldest part of Gevrey right at the top of the village between the church and Gevrey’s Château.

It was Sylvie’s father, Michel Esmonin, who began to develop the domaine though he sold the wines in bulk to the négoce; so Sylvie had a simple condition before joining her father at the domaine – that they should domaine-bottle their entire production – Michel agreed! Sylvie had previously studied oenology in Dijon and worked for some time as a consulting oenologist but came back to Gevrey just in time to help vinify the 1990 vintage. Initially, Michel and Sylvie made all the decisions together; progressively Sylvie took on more responsibility.

At not much over five hectares, the domaine is relatively modest in size, but those hectares have a strong focus on Gevrey-Chambertin – small amounts of Volnay Santenots and a Bourgogne Blanc from near Meursault are simply described as ‘anecdotes’ by Sylvie. The domaine’s jewel is that most iconic of wines to sport a Gevrey label – 1.6 hectares of Clos Saint Jacques.

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