On our table
Sunday Night Supper: A Study of Slope
Jacky Blot (RIP 2023) is one of the truly great producers of Loire Valley red wine. Here, a deep(er) dive with a delicious conclusion.

100% Cabernet Sauvignon, LIOCO’s 2021 “Fondo” is a wonderfully soulful throwback to the great California Cabs of another era. Deeply expressive yet remarkably fresh, it layers blackberry, black currant, preserved cherry, and dark plum with gravelly earth, cedar, bay leaf, and a savory, almost Bordeaux-like character. The fruit has plenty of depth without ever feeling heavy, carried by bright acidity, fine-grained tannins, and a restrained hand with oak that allows the vineyard and vintage to speak. There is something wonderfully old-school here: earthy, energetic, and unvarnished, with the kind of low-key complexity and food-friendly balance that recalls the classic California table wines of the 1970s. Pour it alongside slow-braised short ribs with roasted mushrooms and a deeply reduced pan jus...rustic, savory food that meets the wine on its own terms and lets its dark fruit, mineral edge, and herbal character shine.
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