Dinner party
Salmon: Three Wines + Three Ways
Building momentum in the Kitchen and in the Cellar can be the very best thing for your skills and, as importantly, your feelings about them. Part Two: Salmon.
2010
“This is the Bin 389 we’ve been waiting for! How good? Well, that’s for others to say. What we will say, however, is that it is benchmark 389 – certainly the finest of this new millennia, and one that will jostle with the reputations of the Bin 389 big names (sorry, vintages) of the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s!”
“Now in its sixth decade, ‘Baby Grange’ asserts its own identity and commands its own following. It continues to evolve, enchant, embrace and excite! Serve blind and surprise.”
“If only we could make more ...”
-PETER GAGO, PENFOLDS CHIEF WINEMAKER
Bin 389 is often referred to as ‘Poor Man’s Grange’ or ‘Baby Grange’, in part because components of the wine are matured in the same barrels that held the previous vintage of Grange. First made in 1960, by the legendary Max Schubert, this was the wine that helped to build Penfolds solid reputation with red wine drinkers. Combining the structure of Cabernet with the richness of Shiraz, Bin 389 also exemplifies Penfolds skill in judiciously balancing fruit and oak.
COLOUR
Vibrant blood-red with a staining dark core.
NOSE
Complete. Initially difficult to separate aromatic components. Must be Bin 389! With aeration, an evocative barrel-ferment character separates above, prune/fig/dates/quince beneath, bridged by soy/hoisin sauce notes. A pronounced freshness is immediately apparent. Scents of char-grilled, Italian vegetables (zucchini, eggplant) fleetingly distract. Stylish, and regardless of whether either ee or oo are used, both breeding and brooding are apt descriptors!
PALATE
Full-bodied.
A vinous web of cola, newly-tanned leather and dark-berried fruits. Minimal structural weave – little flavour space to fill, no gaps. Cabernet and Shiraz dovetail effortlessly. Vibrant, with a tangy freshness augmented by sculptured tannins, lively acidity, and respectful oak. Length, weight and texture sit well. Embellishment not required. Tasting is.
VINTAGE CONDITIONS
With Barossa, Coonawarra, Wrattonbully and Robe all enjoying the above-average winter rain and soil replenishment, South Australian vines were granted an exceptional start to the season. Winter rainfalls not only fuelled strong canopy framework but included some soil water reserves allowing for some safeguarding in the following months. Unswerving from the trend of the 2000s was an earlier budburst, flowering and harvest across Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale
and the south east. Healthy set in early ripening Shiraz was in contrast to uneven flowering and light set of south east Cabernet Sauvignon. Cool nights and consistently warm days typified the growing season and were conducive to sustained ripening and consequent flavour development. Dry conditions persevered until Easter. A growing season and vintage that not only allowed for varietal typicity in Shiraz but also just as well-suited to the more marginal Cabernet Sauvignon. Such alignment helped to define the quality of this vintage.
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