Dinner party
Salmon: Three Wines + Three Ways
Building momentum in the Kitchen and in the Cellar can be the very best thing for your skills and, as importantly, your feelings about them. Part Two: Salmon.
Composed of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Montepulciano, “San Valentino” comes partly from young vines (a dozen years old or younger) which Bea sees as not quite ready for prime time in one of his crus, and partly from 40- to 50-year-old vines from parcels not destined for inclusion in the crus. Fermented and aged two years in steel, then transferred to large Slavonian casks for two additional years, this 2016 spent 41 days macerating on its skins, yet its texture is quite refined compared to more ferocious vintages of this wine. It soars on the nose and offers a bevy of spice as per usual, but this pulls back short of full-on wildness, and its balance is striking.
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