From our Importer: Selva (wild) Capuzza (hood) is situated on the highest elevations (110-125 M) of Lugana, a notoriously low and flat zone. Much of the wine of the zone is produced not far off Lake Garda's shores which sits at 65 M ASL. The ancient name of the place refers to these hills and the natural state of things in them. While 125 meters is not exactly towering above the rest of the zone, its important for two key reasons. Here is where the glacier that carved out Lago di Garda came to rest against the gentle hill and the soil compostion is a bit different than the flatter area towards the lake with it's highly compacted clay soils.

There is a bit more sand and rock here (along with the important white clay) and enough of a slope resulting in much better drainage. More importantly this sole hilltop gets wind off the lake. A lot, almost everday, greatly reducing the amount of spraying of copper and sulfur needed that is common in the zone to ward off perinospora and oidium, which in this very humid area by a huge lake, is a constant struggle. Podere Selva Capuzza is composed of 2 old estates, Selva Capuzza and San Biagio where most of the red grapes are grown. At 34 hectares in total, it's not a very small producer, but not that big either and Luca has no plans to expand. More telling is the low production off that land which is indicative of the low yields off their old vines (35+ for most). The entry level wine, Lugana San Vigilio is made with the same care but from younger, recent plantings (4 to 17 years) and is finished with a stelvin closure. Selva and Riserva Menasasso are from the same old vine plot at the highest elevation.

There are also impressive red wines here, something rare in this zone, moreso because Luca has resisted the temptation over the last few decades when it was fashionable, to blend international varieties with indigenous grapes. Here the reds celebrate their local culture and history and employ only those cultivars. Something of a rarity is a 100% varietal Groppello. This is a delicious light to medium bodied red that is only 12.5 % and has a quaffable, versatile character. There are 500 hectares of it planted around the western side of Garda, so it's not as rare as Verduno Pelaverga, but most of it ends up in a DOC blend of this region known as Garda Classico Rosso and Rosato or alternatively Riviera del Garda Classico Rosso and Rosato. I mention Pelaverga because it is somehow reminiscent of that variety. The fruit tones are darker tending towards darker red and blue fruit tones, and the characteristic spiciness carries a more mineral vein than Pelaverga. Yet,... drinking it I was as charmed as I was drinking my first Pelaverga

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