Dinner party
Salmon: Three Wines + Three Ways
Building momentum in the Kitchen and in the Cellar can be the very best thing for your skills and, as importantly, your feelings about them. Part Two: Salmon.
Made up of 70% Pinot Meunier, and 15% each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It was fermented in stainless steel and concrete tanks with a natural yeast pied de cuve that originates from yeasts in his vineyards. Some parcels went through spontaneous malolactic fermentation, but it is not encouraged. Overall, sulfur addition is kept to less than 30ppm. From there this cuvee was aged on its lees for 50 months before being disgorged with a dosage of 7 grams per liter. The nose shows a bright and forward aroma set of yellow plums, apricot, clotted cream, brioche, and apple tart. The palate is moderate in weight with the fruit notes balanced by creamy brioche, apricot danish, and clay minerality. We found this to be delicious and open knit right now, so while this could well age for up to 2029, you may find this hard to resist in the meantime. D&M Tasting Notes
The Ponson family have owned and worked the vineyards for five generations. Similar to the Brocard family down in the Aube, the early 2010s were a period of change at the domaine. In 2011, after completing his enology degree and traveling and working throughout Oceania, Maxime Ponson returned home at the age of 25 to the family domaine. In a story that has repeated itself across time– he and his father did not see eye to eye in regards to winegrowing practices. His father Pascal had been resistant to conversion to organic as the use of chemicals had ensured a consistent crop throughout his life. A friendly bet was offered with a .5 hectare of the family’s land to be worked by organic means and the yield and quality compared to Pascal’s conventional approach. After a trial vintage in 2014, Pascal was impressed with the results and the domaine began to convert to organic viticulture, a process nearly complete by the 2018 harvest.
Maxime has said he wants the environment to be as healthy as possible by doing only what is necessary and leave something better than what he has today for his two daughters. 2018 was a year of celebration and loss. Maxime’s family had moved into a new house and he was joined in the cellar by his brother Camille– but his father Pascal passed away in his sleep at 59. Since then both brothers have worked together in the vineyards and the cellar to carry on their family’s legacy. Their land holdings stretch across 7 Premier Cru villages in the Petite Montagne. From north to south, these are: Vrigny, Coulommes-la-Montagne (their home town), Pargny-lès-Reims, Jouy-lès-Reims, Ville-Dommange, Sacy and Ecueil.
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