From our importer: This rarely grown grape is called Gray Sauvignon in some regions and Pink Sauvignon in others, and is an ancestor of the modern-day Sauvignon grape. It had fallen out of style for a number of reasons, the first of which is its tendency to produce very little grapes. In addition, the fermentation can often times be very tricky. However, in the right hands, it is a marvelous varietal. It is far more concentrated in aromatics than the normal, cloned varieties, and when barrel-fermented it can reach the same level of the greatest Sauvignons from the Loire and Bordeaux.

The nose is quite floral, with creamy exotic aromas of mandarins, mango and some pear. It is very full and long. The wine shows so much breed for its humble designation that it just cries out to be a ringer in a blind tasting of top-flight Sauvignons from around the world.

In the village of Saint-Bris-Le-Vineux, the Goisot family is leading the viticultural resurgence of Burgundy’s Yonne region. Only a few kilometers southwest of Chablis, not far from the city of Auxerre, these vineyards were first prized for their superb quality by the Romans in the 2nd century A.D., long before Burgundy’s Côte d’Or was as celebrated as it is today. What makes Saint-Bris and the Côtes d’Auxerre so special is the chalky Kimmeridgian limestone soils and cool climate that they share with Chablis. Indeed, in the 19th century, prior to phylloxera, Saint-Bris was entitled to the appellation Chablis; but when the vineyards were replanted, the noble grape varieties that had made the area’s reputation were replaced by high-yielding, low-quality varietals in order to quench Paris’ thirst for vin ordinaire. The terroirs produce wines that are more refined, firm, mineral-driven, and often more thirst-quenching than wines from farther south in Burgundy.

Jean-Hugues Goisot, his wife, Ghislaine, and their son, Guilhelm, are widely recognized as the area’s finest producers. They are leading a movement of vignerons who are dedicated to low yields, sustainable farming, and natural, minimalist vinifications. They spend more time in their vineyards than their cellars, continually plowing the soil so that the roots seek nourishment deep down in the bedrock beneath the topsoil. They use natural composts. As a result, yields are naturally low (50 to 55 hl/ha for the whites, 35 to 40 hl/ha for the reds), and ripening occurs early and evenly, thanks in part to the predominantly south by southeast sun exposure of their vineyards. The land has been organically farmed since 1990 and is certified in both organic and biodynamic viticulture.

Entirely hand-harvested, the grapes undergo a rigorous triage both in the vineyards and in the cellars. The Goisots de-stem the whole of their crop, crush and press the grapes gently, and only use wild yeasts for fermentation. The whites are vinified in stainless steel and oak vats and undergo malolactic fermentation without stirring to keep the inherent crispness of the grapes. Depending on the cuvee, they age for 10 to 16 months before bottling. The reds macerate from three to four weeks with occasional pump-overs in stainless steel before being racked to barrels for malolactic fermentation. They age for 10 to 16 months before an unfined and filtered bottling.

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