From our Importer: As a young boy, Jean-François worked alongside his grandfather, tending their family parcels in Saint Joseph lieu-dit Sainte-Épine (just above Raymond Trollat’s legendary old vine which now go into Gonon’s Vieilles Vignes bottling) in the village of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. Jean-François fully took over his family’s vines in 2003, while simultaneously working in Côte-Rôtie (Rostaing), Hermitage, and Savoir (Pierre Boniface), and then began his own Domaine in 2010. Farming lutte raisonnée with horses and hand-plowing, Jean-François is a vigneron, spending almost all of his time in the vines. He is also reconstructing some of the old stone terraces that went to forest after phylloxera, similar to how Thierry Allemand is reclaiming Chaillot terraces further south in Cornas.

Jacouton also still farms apricots, cherries and peaches (which has been the history in this region with
Verset, Chave and others) so benefically his wine cellar is an old fruit warehouse on the granite plateau above the
vines. The temperature of his cellar can be dropped to zero degrees Celcius, allowing him to work with lower levels of SO2 while maintaining cleanliness and prceision. His whites are sexy and polished, but still show restraint (a tiny production of Condrieu being in the earlier-harvested school of raciness and minerality), the reds are classic and old-school but also clean and precise. The older vines show more density, chewiness (also with greater inclusion of whole bunches) and ageability. As delicious as the wines are now, seeing JF’s effort in the vines, you get the sense here of a producer just beginning to stretch his wings. - Lyle Railsback

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