From our friend Jim Kreuger: The Pannonhalma Archabbey towers over a small northeast Hungarian town in between the historic cities of Vienna and Budapest. Benedictine Monks have operated the hilltop winery since 996, and from the very beginning, they made wine. Here, and elsewhere, Catholic monks have been important in the history of viticulture. Notably it was monks of the Cisterian Order who studied, cultivated, and advanced winemaking practices in Burgundy; their legacy continues to represent a profound influence in making Burgundian wine what it is today. In Pannonhalma, the Benedictine monks were working similarly: continuously making wine, studying, and advancing viticultural practices from the Abbey’s open in 996 until the end of World War II. The formation of the Eastern Bloc after the second world war impacted many aspects of Hungarian life, and winemaking as they knew it, nearly destroyed. All assets of the Abbey were confiscated, including the monastery’s vineyards. But for political upheaval, this Abbey would be the oldest continuously operating winery in the world, today.

After the fall of communism at the end of the 20th century, the monastery was returned to the Monks and they resumed work in their vineyards. To make up for a generation lost, the monks recruited the help of legendary Hungarian winemaker Tibor Gál (remember that name), who was made famous for his work at Ornellaia in Tuscany. His job: restore and modernize this ancient farm. The now-resurrected winery has just marked a 20th anniversary in its second life, and the wine made here today is just incredible. White ‘Tricollis’ is a classic central European blend comprised of mostly Welshriesling and Riesling with some Gewürztraminer and Pinot Blanc. This wine is addictingly aromatic on the nose with a rush of acidity on the palate. Incredibly floral, with notes of citrus, melon, and minerals, ‘Tricollis’ is a bright and refreshing wine. A perfect wine for appetizers and a worthy start to any dinner party with a fascinating history to boot. A charming introduction to the potential of Hungarian wines and a profound exploration of fresh flavors with ancient roots just made for après-ski. -JK.

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