On our table
Sunday Night Supper: A Study of Slope
Jacky Blot (RIP 2023) is one of the truly great producers of Loire Valley red wine. Here, a deep(er) dive with a delicious conclusion.

100% Chardonnay. The 2013 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Côte de Lechet is a mature, classic Chablis 1er Cru, combining the cool vintage’s incisive acidity and mineral tension with the richness gained from extended lees ageing. The nose opens with lemon curd, ripe yellow apple and orchard fruit, then develops into honeycomb, dried white flowers, almond and struck-flint notes. On the palate it is broad and satiny but never heavy, with a firm saline spine, chalky minerality and lively acidity carrying flavors of preserved citrus, apricot and subtle spice; with air, the wine takes on an appealing nutty, slightly waxy complexity characteristic of its age. The finish is long, stony and distinctly maritime, with a delicate bitter-almond note and lingering salinity. A beautifully evolved 2013 that shows Côte de Lechet’s mineral precision while allowing the vintage’s maturity to add depth and texture. Enjoy with pan-seared scallops with brown butter and lemon. The vintage-specific profile is consistent with notes describing the 2013 as both generous and full in attack and increasingly refined, saline and mineral on the finish, with mature honeyed, orchard-fruit and nutty nuances.
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