Dinner party
Salmon: Three Wines + Three Ways
Building momentum in the Kitchen and in the Cellar can be the very best thing for your skills and, as importantly, your feelings about them. Part Two: Salmon.
From the importer:
In the Langhe there is no shortage of great wines. The focus for us has always been on delivering those with both great value and typicity. Every now and then one stumbles across a winery that delivers Quality, Typicity, Value and is quite unique as well. This tiny, eponomously named artisanal winery delivers it ALL! From 5.5 hectares situated primarly in Monforte's most prestigous cru, Bussia comes an array of wines that are unmistakably Barolo, yet somehow present a unique textural quality quite unlike any I've seen before. Silvano spent a decade experimenting with methods to bring out the maximum expression of his unique slice of Bussia. His methods are not easy to classify by any readily known terms such as Traditional or Modern. Classifying the results is far easier. Stupendous and absolutely delicious! Bussia is a pretty large vineyard and Silvano's part is that which sits directly above Pianpolvere Soprano, another of my all time favorite sites in Barolo, and is the highest elevation in all of Bussia.
Aside from fastidious cleanliness, the two major areas where Silvano veers off onto his own path are extended post fermentation macerations and elevage. In an era where macerating for 30 days is considered quite traditional, what do you call it when one leaves the wine on its skins for up to 95 days? But then the wine goes into 100% French Barriques for the first year, none of it new, and specially treated to provide maximal micro-oxygenation and minimal oak flavor infusion. These are stunning and very unique wines that represent geat value in the ever escalating Barolo zone. Value aside, Enogea magazine, a proffessional wine periodical in Italy edited by the esteemed Alessandro Masnaghetti named Bolmida "Il Barolista dell' Anno" for a consistently high level of quality.
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